musings on music, travel, books, and life from Southeast Asia

Posts tagged ‘Kuala Lumpur’

Bobby Womack’s Staying Power

I found a copy of the 40th Anniversary Edition of Across 110th Street, the classic soundtrack by Bobby Womack, when I was in Kuala Lumpur recently. That got me in a Womack mood all over again. To say that Bobby Womack has been around the musical block would be an understatement. Few artists have collaborated with so many other musicians and have recorded such a wide variety of music as Womack. His songs can have soul, funk, gospel, jazz, rock, blues, and even country touches, and Womack occasionally adds a philosophical rap as an introduction to some of his songs too. Whatever he records, even if it’s a well-known cover such as “Fire and Rain” or “California Dreaming”, you can guarantee it’s going to be special.

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Startling as a ten-year-old singing gospel songs in a group with his brothers, he had the fortune of having Sam Cooke as his mentor, married Cooke’s widow, started a solo career, collaborated with Ron Wood and other members of the Rolling Stones, survived a drug addiction, battled colon cancer and diabetes, sang with Damon Albarn’s side project, The Gorillaz,on their Plastic Beach album, and then just when you thought Bobby Womack was a relic from another era he released the powerful The Bravest Man in the Universe, his first studio album in 18 long years.

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Listening to The Bravest Man in the Universe, you can’t help but notice that Womack’s vocals sound a little tattered around the edges, but they still retain their trademark gritty power and passion. What threw many old fans for a loop on this new album, however, was the producer’s liberal use of synthesizers, drum machines, samples (including one from the late great Gil Scott-Heron!), and other contemporary sonic touches. It sure didn’t sound like a classic Bobby Womack album, which bothered more than a few longtime fans, but once you got your head around these jarring new sounds, it all clicked and flowed. This one grows on you. The fact that is made many “Best of the Year” lists confirmed its quality.

 

Bobby Womack is indeed a survivor, someone who seemingly battles back from every setback or obstacle appearing stronger than before. He recently admitted that he’s been having memory lapses, suggesting to some that he may be in the early stages of Alzheimer’s disease. But if you know anything about “The Bravest Man in the Universe,” you know not to count him out just yet.

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Bobby Womack began his musical career in 1954 at the tender age of ten, singing in a gospel group with his siblings, aptly named Curtis Womack and the Womack Brothers. Two years later, Sam Cooke saw the Womack brothers and was impressed enough to take them under his wing, later changing the name to The Valentinos to reflect their switch to a more pop oriented style. With teenager Bobby on vocals, the group soon started charting and enjoyed several hits. In 1964, a song written by Bobby “It’s All Over Now,” became a huge hit when it was covered by the Rolling Stones. In December of that year, however, Sam Cooke was shot and killed at a Los Angeles hotel. Only weeks after Cooke’s passing, Womack moved in with Sam’s widow, Barbara, and the two were married within three months. After Cooke’s passing, The Valentinos broke up and Bobby started doing session work before releasing his first solo album in 1968. That led to a long and successful career as a recording artist, with hits such as “Looking for a Love” and “Woman’s Gotta Have It” selling millions of copies.

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Womack also reaped a big hit with the theme song from the film Across 110th Street in 1972. That song enjoyed renewed popularity after being used in Quentin Tarantino’s Jackie Brown film soundtrack in 1997. The Anniversary Edition of Across 110th Street that I got in KL is a 2-CD set that includes both the original soundtrack on the first disc (sadly, with no bonus cuts) and two of his studio albums from the same period on the second disc. While Across 110th Street is indeed a classic soundtrack, and it has much more than a few cool Bobby Womack songs, the glue that holds the soundtrack together are the instrumental contributions from jazz trombone legend J.J. Johnson, who composed and conducted the musical score to the film and co-wrote the title cut with Womack. If you like Johnson’s compositions on this album you should also check out another amazing soundtrack he did in the 70s, Cleopatra Jones.

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Forty years after it was released, Across 110th Street still stands as one of the better soundtracks of the “Blaxploitation” era. Although it barely cracks the 30-minute barrier, the music is a scintillating brew of soul and funk, Womack’s distinctive vocals and Johnson’s propulsive score. The bonus disc with the anniversary edition contains two studio releases by Womack; his 1973 album “Facts of Life” and the 1974 follow-up “Lookin’ For a Love Again.” I had heard many of those songs before, thanks to various Womack compilations that I own, but I had never heard each album in its entirety, so it made for a worthwhile listen. As with many studio albums of that era, there are some gems and some filler. Many of Womack’s originals are very solid if not splendid, but some of his cover attempts, such as “All Along the Watchtower” and “A Natural Man”, are not as potent.

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After his mid-70s heyday, Womack’s solo recordings weren’t quite as potent and the hits became fewer, until he bounced back with the critically acclaimed The Poet in 1981. In addition to Womack’s solo recordings, he has collaborated with artists as diverse as Sly Stone, Jim Ford, Aretha Franklin, Gabor Szabo, Wilton Felder from the Crusaders, Ronnie Wood (some of his songs appearing on Wood’s classic Now Look album), and more recently The Gorillaz, the supergroup formed by Damon Albarn of Blur. There is also talk that Womack has been recording a blues album, one that will feature guest appearances by many of his musical friends. Whatever Womack is able to record as this point can only be seen as a bonus, and I look forward to hearing him release more new music.

KL’s Little Burma

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There has been a lot of excitement in the past year over various reforms in Myanmar, the most dramatic changes being the release of political prisoners, democratic elections, more freedom of the press, and opening the country to foreign investment. But one thing that hasn’t changed in the country is the dire employment situation and stagnant economy. Maybe all this “investment” and “development” will equate to better employment opportunities for locals at some point, but, to quote the great song by John Hiatt: “It hasn’t happened yet.”

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Because finding a good paying job — hell, any sort of job — is so difficult, many natives of Myanmar are still seeking work in other Southeast Asian countries, particularly in Thailand and Malaysia. In Bangkok, it’s quite common to find people from Myanmar working in jobs in the construction industry, in bars and restaurants, or as maids. I’ve met two waiters just in the past month; one from Mawlamyine and the other from Chin State. When I was in Kuala Lumpur last month one of the young men working at my hotel was from Mandalay. He’s been working there for several years and I always enjoy chatting with him in Burmese when I stay there. Not far from the hotel, near KL’s Central Market, or Pasar Seni, is a street lined with several businesses either managed by people from Myanmar or catering to customers from that country. This “Little Burma” seems to get larger every time I’m in town.

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When I’m in KL, I make sure to stop at the Gantawin Restaurant a few times for hearty bowls of monhinga for breakfast, or good meal and a bottle of Myanmar Beer at night. The waitresses always look a little apprehensive when they see a western customer enter the establishment, but once I smooth talk them with a bit of Burmese, the ice is broken. One more bottle, please!

 

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KL’s famous Coliseum Café

My favorite place to eat in Kuala Lumpur, hands down, is the legendary Coliseum Café. It’s legendary because it’s been in business since 1921, they serve excellent food, and a variety of famous personalities — Somerset Maugham being one — have dined there, or drank the night away in the adjoining bar.

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On the food front, the Coliseum is best known for their sizzling steaks. They also serve a variety of other Western dishes, Malay cuisine, seafood, and pasta. One of my favorite appetizers is the chunks of fried bean curd accompanied by a spicy dip. I used to always order a Tiger draught beer with my meal, but upon my last visit I was dismayed to discover they’ve changed the brand of beer on tap.

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Judging from the beer switch and other changes, it seems that the Coliseum has changed owners or is under new management this past year. The basic décor —– or lack of it, which I find comforting — has not changed at all, but now you can’t miss the tie-wearing “management types” shuffling around the premises, grim looks plastered on their faces, as if they are determined to find the slightest signs of irregularity. In addition to the stiff-looking dudes, the menus now have a much slicker look, complete with “specials” glaringly listed, and there are posted signs encouraging diners to use a certain brand of credit card. It also appears that the old crew of long-serving waiters has been culled. A few of the waiters that I’d seen working there in recent years had obviously been at the Coliseum for several decades, but I didn’t see many of those guys around this time. One sweet old fellow would always ask me, after I had finished my meal, if I “would like some pudding.” There wasn’t any “pudding” listed on the menu, but that was his charming way of referring to the dessert options. I didn’t see him anywhere in the restaurant during my two visits last month, which made me feel a bit sad. If he and the other old-timers have been sacked or have retired, that’s a damn shame. They are as much a part of the atmosphere, and the appeal, of the Coliseum as the food.

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Besides the absence of veteran waiters, the biggest shock upon my recent visit was seeing waitresses working at the Coliseum! Call the police, there are women working! I certainly have nothing against females waiting tables — in many cases, they do their job better than most guys do — but to my knowledge there were never any waitresses working at the Coliseum during the past 90 years, so this is a big, big change. It’s akin to the New York Yankees hiring a female manager. Historic. One young woman, however, who wasn’t dressed in any sort of uniform, walked around the room along with the management cretins one night and attempted to take my plate away — not once but twice — before I had even finished my meal. I was tempted to stab the oblivious hussy with my fork. If there’s food remaining on the plate, missy, I ain’t finished yet!

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The Coliseum also doubles as a hotel, boasting a few very basic fan rooms upstairs. I talked to a Belgian couple at my bookshop in a Bangkok a few months back, who had stayed there recently. In fact, they had gone there specifically because that’s where they stayed on their honeymoon … thirty years ago! They were thrilled that the Coliseum was still in business, serving tasty meals and offering affordable accommodation. I’m in full agreement that the food at the Coliseum is still quite delicious and they serve generous portions, but the recent changes, no matter how subtle, strike me as a cause for concern. I just hope they don’t tinker too much with the basics that have endeared the restaurant to so many diners over the year. If, for example, when I dine there the next time, and I see a sign trumpeting the fact that they now have wi-fi, or are offering “live entertainment” each evening, I think that will be the last straw. Bring back the pudding man!

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Book Bonanza in Kuala Lumpur

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There is still time; one week left for the Big Bad Wolf Book Sale being held at the Malaysia International Exhibition and Convention Centre (MIECC) in the Seri Kembangan area of Kuala Lumpur. I realize that hopping over to KL won’t be possible for most readers, but if you ARE in Malaysia, or passing through the region, you might to think about hitting this sale. It’s a pretty mammoth event.

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This sale is being touted as the biggest in the world; over three million books, all with discounts of 75-95 percent off the publisher’s list price. The sale will end on December 23. Last weekend the book sale never stopped, staying open from 9 am on Friday until 6 pm on Saturday. Imagine shopping for books at three in the morning and enjoying free food and drinks in the process. Both mind boggling and eyesight tiring. The MIECC is located in the MINES Resort City, Selangor Darul Ehsan. Seri Kembangan. One fellow book lover in KL suggested that I should “take a box” if I was planning on attending. If nothing else, anyone planning to go there should bring several sturdy bags or a dependable set of luggage. You’ll be tempted by the bargains.

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I was in Kuala Lumpur about two weeks ago, too soon to take advantage of this sale, but I did make my usual stop at the BookXcess outlet at the Amcorp Mall in Petaling Jaya. They had an outstanding selection of affordable remainder titles as usual, everything from trade size paperback novels to hardcover titles, and books in a wide array of categories, including travel, sports, photography, biography, science, business, music, history, cooking, and romance. I bought a few books for myself, a couple of big bags full of assorted titles for my shop in Bangkok, and several children’s books, flashcards, and puzzles to use for teaching the next time I’m Shan State. They also had a pretty cool selection of Dr. Seuss jigsaw puzzles. Tempting, but at that point I was pushing the weight limit of my baggage allowance, so I didn’t get any.

BookXcess only has this one branch in town, but it makes for a very worthwhile visit if you are a book fiend. And it’s easy to get to from anywhere in the KL area. Just hop on the LRT train and take it to the Tama Jaya station. From there, it’s a short walk across the parking lot (just past the vintage A&W drive-through restaurant) to the mall. BookXcess is located on the third floor. They are open daily from 10:30 am till 9:30 pm.

http://www.bookxcess.com/

http://bigbadwolfbooks.com/

 

Stiff Records

Stiff Records billed itself as “the world’s most flexible record label” and during their glory years from the mid 1970s through the early 1980s they released dozens of excellent and influential singles and albums. Artists such as Elvis Costello, Nick Lowe, Devo, The Damned, Lene Lovich, Rachel Sweet, Ian Dury & the Blockheads, and Madness were among the most famous, but digger deeper into the Stiff archives and you’ll be rewarded with even more amazing music from The Members, Wreckless Eric, Tracey Ullman, Any Trouble, and many others. Call it punk, new wave, indie, alternative rock, or just plain pop, but the recordings on Stiff were mostly very good and definitely very influential.

 

In addition to the music, Stiff was notable for their bold, and sometimes bawdy, advertising slogans. In print, and especially on those omnipresent buttons and badges, it was hard to ignore jewels such as:

“If it ain’t Stiff it ain’t worth a fuck”

“Stiff’ll Fix It”

“If they’re dead, we’ll sign ‘em!”

Fuck Art, Let’s Dance!”

“Money Talks, People Mumble”

“We Lead Where Others Follow but Can’t Keep Up”

 

Yeah, there was no other record label quite like Stiff!

 

When I was in Kuala Lumpur earlier this year, I was delighted to find a two-disc set called Born Stiff: The Stiff Records Collection at one of the Rock Corner shops. This CD has the usual Stiff suspects plus obscure tracks from the likes of Pink Fairies, The Tyla Gang, Larry Wallis, Billy Bremner, The Yachts, and The Sports. Some of my very favorite songs of that era are included: the rollicking “Swords of a Thousand Men” by Tenpole Tudor; Kirsty MacColl’s brilliant version of Billy Bragg’s “A New England”; Jona Lewie’s nifty “You’ll Always Find me in the Kitchen at Parties” (a good tune, and one of the best song titles ever!); Lene Lovich’s faithful cover of “I Think We’re Alone Now”; The Belle Stars Motown-like nugget “Sign of the Times”; and Graham Parker & The Rumour’s bitterly brilliant “Mercury Poisoning.” Stiff Records pretty much came to a grinding halt in 1986, but was resurrected two decades later, and this collection contains three tracks from 2008, including a wonderful song from Chris Difford of Squeeze and a nice new tune from Wreckless Eric and Amy Rigby. She was so good that he married her!

 

About the only knock I can make about this collection is the absence of two very good artists: Ian Gomm (who had a big hit with “Hold On” and wrote some songs with Nick Lowe too) and the underrated/overlooked New York band Dirty Looks. Instead, we are offered a Motorhead track that seems woefully out of place, along with the puzzling “England’s Glory” by Max Wall. There are also a few tracks on this collection that sound dated or just plain dull; I never was a fan of Yello’s novelty-like tune “I Love You,” and while I like Devo very much, the version of “Jock Homo” on here sounds like it was recorded in a well. For the most part, however, Born Stiff is a great listening experience: fascinating collaborations, singular brilliance, and myriad moments of musical magic.

 

Kool and the Gang’s Funky Stuff

“Can’t Get Enough … of that Funky Stuff,” sang Kool & the Gang in one of their hits from the early 1970s. During that marvelous era, Kool and the Gang was one of the finest purveyors of funky soul music in the business, and their fans could NOT get enough of their lively, addictive tunes. In addition to “Funky Stuff,” the band also scored big hits in 1973 with “Jungle Boogie” and “Hollywood Swinging”. The songs on early albums like Wild and Peaceful and Spirit of the Boogie were indeed quite funky, but were also infused with lots of delicious instrumental jazz grooves, a product of the band’s 60s jazz roots. After their sizzling stretch of hits in the early to mid 70s, Kool & the Gang cooled off considerably in the following years and were at a musical crossroads by the end of the decade.

 

In 1979 the band added a new singer, James “J.T.” Taylor (the extra initials added no doubt so there was no confusion with the singer of “Fire and Rain” fame), picked Emuir Deodato to produce their next two albums, and revived their career with the monster hits “Celebration” and “Ladies Night.” But that was only the start of another long chart run for Kool & the Gang. Throughout most of the 80s their hit streak continued with songs like “Take my Heart,” “Joanna,” “Misled,” “Cherish,” and “Fresh.” Unfortunately, those 80s hits lacked the old funky magic and free-form spirit of the group’s early material and left many longtime fans disappointed with the new direction.

 

When I was in Kuala Lumpur last month I found a copy of Kool & the Gang’s Light of Worlds at the Rock Corner branch in the Mid Valley Megamall. This was a studio album the band released in 1974. It didn’t yield any huge Top Forty hits at the time, but was nonetheless an excellent collection of songs, perhaps the band’s finest overall album. The instrumental “Summer Madness” was one of those evocative pieces that still can conjure up all sorts of magical memories. Another tune, “Fruit Man,” brings a smile to my face every time I hear it, reminding me of those friendly fruit vendors that ply the streets of Bangkok. I don’t know how I missed out on this album the first time around, but I’m extremely pleased to have finally discovered it, albeit a few decades late.

 

There are many Kool & the Gang compilations still in print, but the downside to the comprehensive packages is the fact that they usually include both the early and later period tunes, spread out over one or two discs. My favorite collection is The Best Of Kool and the Gang: 1969-1976. As the title indicates, this is the pre-JT period when the band was at their funky best. Indispensible funky stuff.

Eating KL

One of the great joys in visiting Kuala Lumpur for me is the food. I’m an unabashed foodie, so I delight in sampling the myriad choices of sumptuous cuisine available throughout the greater KL area. Of course there any many places for authentic Malay food, but there is also an abundance of wonderful Indian, Chinese, and Middle Eastern restaurants. If my carnivore side kicks in and I feel like a big juicy steak, which inevitably happens when I’m in town, there is always the famous Coliseum Café or the venerable Ship in Bukit Bintang. 

 

KL doesn’t have the everywhere-you-turn abundance of street food that’s so easily found in Bangkok, but there are parts of the inner city where there are street stalls serving up delectable dishes. The traditional local coffee shops, or kopitiams, are also great places to grab breakfast, or any meal, and some good strong coffee. These joints are usually very laid back and very inexpensive, but also very busy.

 

I made sure to make several trips to Yut Kee in Dang Wangi for some good hearty breakfasts, and another morning I went to my favorite local Burmese restaurant, Gandawin, for a big bowl of monhinga and a few cups of sweet hot tea. I also stopped by Gandawin one evening for dinner, and the place was packed with expat Burmese workers; eating, drinking, and watching music videos on the big TV screens. Surrounded by all that and speaking Burmese to my waitress — not to mention the betel nut stand out front — I felt like I was back in Mandalay!

 

 

Davy Jones & the Monkees

It’s easy, oh so easy, to dismiss the Monkees as a lightweight pop group that was nothing more than a made-for-TV concoction. But as a child of the 60s who was practically raised on TV shows like “The Monkees,” I have to admit that the band was an integral part of my childhood.

 

As you may know already, Davy Jones, the lead singer of The Monkees, passed away this week at the age of 66. After some quick math, his age doesn’t come as much of a shock as it did when I saw the obituary headlines yesterday, but nevertheless it’s mighty hard to fathom “young Davy” as anything more than that cute little British guy who sang most of the Monkees’ songs, and did such silly things on the TV show. Someone like that can never grow old, at least not in my mind.

 

Although the Monkees were indeed a “manufactured” band, assembled mainly for their ability to look good on TV, they managed to record a helluva lot of really good, catchy songs; hits like “Last Train to Clarksville,” “I’m a Believer,” “Pleasant Valley Sunday, “Daydream Believer,” the addictive theme song from their TV show, and many others. Okay, their music wasn’t as “deep” at that of musical contemporaries such as the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, the Kinks, or The Who, but that doesn’t mean it was inconsequential. Their songs were loved by millions of young listeners.

 

Ironically, just two weeks ago, when I was in Kuala Lumpur, I purchased my first Monkees collection on CD. I found a copy of The Works, a 3-CD compilation by Monkees (released by Rhino and WEA UK) at the Amcorp Mall branch of Victoria Music in Petaling Jaya. This was more Monkees music than I really needed, but the price was so affordable that I couldn’t resist purchasing the collection. I haven’t even listened to the whole thing yet, but the death of Davy Jones has motivated me to put this into heavy rotation at home for the rest of the month. If nothing else, just hearing “Daydream Believer” each morning will bring a smile to my face and ensure that the day gets off to a good start.

Fun Finds

I love hunting for old books when I’m on the road. In Yangon, the outdoor bookstalls on Pansodan Road can sometimes yield little treasures, and in Phnom Penh I always seem to find a gem or two at Bohr’s Books. While in Kuala Lumpur last week, I visited some several secondhand bookshops and also the BookXcess outlet in Petaling Jaya’s Amcorp Mall for some good cheap remainder titles.

One of the goodies I found at the Junk Bookstore in KL (and yes, that’s really the name of this shop) was Every Little Crook and Nanny a 1972 novel by Evan Hunter, the author also known as Ed McBain. Every Little Crook and Nanny is a bit different than McBain’s popular 87th Precinct series of novels, ones that have been dubbed “Police Procedurals.” This one is more of a comic caper, reminiscent of Donald Westlake’s delightful Dortmunder books. The Hunter novel features a cast of (almost) lovable Mafia goons, a hapless kidnapper, and a bizarre police officer or two. Good fun.

 

I also found a battered copy of Hot Day, Hot Night by Chester Himes, which is the sixth novel in the classic Coffin Ed Johnson and Grave Digger Jones series. First published in 1969, this is a 1975 edition, big afros on the cover and all. A review in the San Francisco Chronicle called Himes “the best writer of mayhem yarns since Raymond Chandler.” Mayhem yarns? Whatever you want to call this style of crime fiction, it’s the addictive kind, and I look forward to reading this old Chester Himes novel very soon.

 

Yet another goodie I was thrilled to find was William Kotzwinkle’s Jack in the Box, one of the more warped coming-of-age tales that you are likely to read. Comic books, teenage hormones, and a wacky cast of characters make for a very humorous novel. Kotzwinkle is a brilliant writer who has written some of the funniest books around, The Bear Went Over the Mountain being one of most hilarious novels of all time, in my opinion. Really, that book was one of those laugh-out-loud tales that you’ll think about reading again a few years later, just to see if it’s still as funny as it was the first time. Jack in the Box isn’t nearly as guffaw-able, but it’s still an entertaining read. Kotzwinkle, by the way, wrote the screenplay for a movie you might have heard of: E.T. the Extra Terrestrial.

In addition to that lot, I found old paperbacks from authors such as Kingsley Amis, J.D. Donleavy, John D. MacDonald, Charles McCarry, Trevanian, Jonathan Raban, Arthur C. Clarke, E.L. Doctorow, Erle Stanley Gardner, M.C. Beaton, and two old “Quiller” novels by Adam Hall. Definitely not the latest best sellers, but this delightful mish-mash of books was just what I was looking for.

Gerry Rafferty’s Baker Street

One of the albums I listened to on my MP4 player while wandering around Kuala Lumpur last week was the soundtrack from Good Will Hunting. I never saw the film but enjoyed the music on this album very much. In addition to Danny Elfman’s film score, there are some cool tunes from the Waterboys, Al Green, the Dandy Warhols, and several songs from the late great Elliott Smith. But the tune that always stands out for me, bursting forth with a triumphant tuneful majesty, is Gerry Rafferty’s famous hit “Baker Street.” Everyone raves about Rafael Ravenscroft’s soaring sax solo on that song, but Rafferty’s comfortably smooth vocals were also a vital component to the song’s appeal. People always associate Gerry Rafferty with that one song, but he recorded many other fine tunes during his career as well.

 

Prior to embarking on a solo career, Rafferty was a member of two bands; The Humblebums (which included Billy Connolly, the same fellow who later gained fame as a comedian) and Stealers Wheel. The latter group enjoyed considerable success in the mid 1970s, scoring big hits with “Stuck in the Middle with You” (which was later featured in the film Reservoir Dogs) and “Star.” I have an excellent compilation of Rafferty’s music on the Raven label titled Days Gone Down: The Anthology 1970-1982. This CD includes some of Rafferty’s material from those two bands along with a bunch of his solo recordings. Of course “Baker Street” is featured, but there are many other impressive songs on this single disc, including “Right Down the Line”, “Get it Right Next Time”, “Home and Dry”, and the awesome title track “Days Gone Down (Still Have the Light in Your Eyes).” Anyone who calls Rafferty a one-hit wonder was obviously not paying attention.

 

Rafferty possessed a very distinctive, soothing voice, one that fit his tunes like the proverbial velvet glove. He was not a shouter or gritty rocker, nor a particularly eloquent musical poet, but his songs were of high quality and all these decades later, they still stick in your head. Rafferty reportedly battled alcohol problems in recent years and during the past decade there were numerous reports of drinking binges and mysterious disappearances. Sadly, Rafferty passed away from liver failure last year. But it’s never too late to discover some of the musical jewels he left behind.

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