musings on music, travel, books, and life from Southeast Asia

Archive for the ‘Cambodia’ Category

Politicians, Friends, and other Delights

Blink and you missed it. Barack Obama made a whirlwind tour of the region earlier in the week, spending a half-day in Bangkok, about six hours in Yangon, and the better part of two days at an ASEAN summit meeting in Phnom Penh. Hillary Clinton also put in an appearance at each location, but then had to fly off to the crazy lands — The Middle East — in an attempt to pacify the Israelis, Palestinians, Egyptians, and possibly other aggrieved nationalities. Does that woman ever get any sleep?

 

It would be an understatement to say that Obama’s visits to Thailand and Myanmar were met with great excitement — and approval — from the populace in each country. People in Asia really like him. And it doesn’t hurt that he has a great smile. Obama himself appeared to be delighted by the warm reception, and looked like he was enjoying the visits. Thai Prime Minister Yingluck “I Love Democracy” Shinawatra couldn’t keep from beaming in every photo that I saw, looking like a schoolgirl getting to meet a famous pop star. And then there were several photos of Obama in Yangon, hugging and kissing Aung San Suu Kyi … uh, rather fervently. The Lady appeared a bit taken back from such an overt display of affection from Barry, but hey, it’ll certainly sell more newspapers in Yangon and give the fellows in the teashops something to talk about. And it sure beats having some creepy overweight dude, wearing a snorkel and flippers and carrying a bible, showing up on your doorstep late one night, dripping lake water and asking to spend the night. That’s one incident — and in case you missed it, yes, it really happened — that I’d love to know more details about.

 

Obama made visits to such sacred sites as Wat Pho in Bangkok and Shwedagon in Yangon, but by contrast, once he arrived in Phnom Penh he didn’t stop for any temple tours, but headed straight to the ASEAN-US Leaders Meeting, where serious business was discussed. The tone was set when Obama greeted Hun Sen — Cambodia’s Prime-Minister-for-Life and don’t you dare think otherwise — with a firm handshake, absent of any back slapping or pleasantries. Even if it was “Give a Thug a Hug” week, I don’t think Obama would have lowered himself to embrace Hun Sen. And good for him. Hun Sen is one of the creepiest “leaders” in the region and it’s about time people started standing up to him. By all accounts, the meeting with Hun Sen was “tense,” Obama giving the old Khmer Rouge foot soldier a dressing down on the subject of land seizures, human rights, freedom of speech, and other such sticky issues that the Cambodian government brushes under the bamboo mat. Despite the millions of dollars in foreign aid money that floods into Cambodia each year — it reportedly receives the highest percentage of any country in Asia — poverty in the country is still rampant and infrastructure well behind that of Thailand. It’s the same old broken record: the rich get richer … and they drive SUVs and get away with…

 

On another Cambodian note, I’ve been flooded with phone calls from friends there this week. The subject of Hun Sen and/or Obama never came up, however. Nowadays, my Cambodian friends have more important things to worry about; like paying school tuition, paying hospital bills, and affording to eat. I talked to three of the Tri brothers, and also Chamrong in Siem Reap. His wife just gave birth to their first child, a boy, but the baby was born one month premature, necessitating a multi-week stay in the hospital for mother and child. Rong took off from his job at the airport for over a full week to help take care of them. Happily, they are all home now and Rong is back at work. Another friend, So Pengthai has also had to help his wife and children recuperate from various illnesses. Blame it on the rainy season, which thankfully, now appears to have run its course.

 

Yet another Cambodian friend from Siem Reap, Chiet, has been calling me almost every day … from Thailand! He’s working in another province as a welder, trying to earn some extra money, Hell, trying to earn any money at all. He’s had a problem finding steady work this year in Siem Reap, so somehow he got hooked up with a job broker that brought him to Thailand. I don’t think he has legal working papers, which makes him one of thousands (perhaps the number runs into five or six figures … or more?) of Cambodians and Burmese who are working in Thailand without proper documents. Not exactly slave labor, but don’t think these people are getting paid a fair wage either. Whatever the case, Chiet is working every day of the week — no days off — and is quite tired, but in pretty good spirits overall. There is another Cambodian working with him, but the rest of the workers, I gather, are Thai. He’s obviously lonely, being away from friends and family, so I’m one of his few daily social contacts, albeit one that’s on the phone. If I can figure out exactly where he’s working — trying to get him to distinguish Sakhon from Nakorn and Pathom from Phanom and other similar words is a difficult task — I may visit him next month. He plans to work here until mid-April, the annual Khmer — and Thai — water festival period, before going back to Siem Reap. In the meantime, we talk each night, which is helping to improve my rusty Khmer skills; word and phrases I haven’t used in years are coming back to me. We joke about eating grilled dog for dinner, plus he’s learning some Thai words too, which he is thrilled to impress me with. I only hope he doesn’t fall into any bad habits — drinking and drugs come to mind — during his exhausting labor stint in a different country. It ain’t an easy life for people like him.

 

Crime Wave Press

Southeast Asia would seem to be fertile ground for writers specializing in crime fiction, and indeed in recent years there has been a bounty of new books published that use a particular country in Southeast Asia — most commonly Thailand — as the setting for various crime escapades or tales of espionage. John Burdett has a thriving series that uses a Thai police officer as the protagonist, Christopher G. Moore has his Vincent Calvino Bangkok P.I. books, and Timothy Hallinan has also written a well-received series based in Thailand. Thailand-based writer Colin Cotterill has his excellent Dr. Seri novels, all based in 1970s Laos, but has recently started a new series with a female Thai protagonist. And that’s only the cream of the crop. There are dozens of other writers who have found Thailand to be a source of inspiration for their novels, yet too many of these tales revolve around a clichéd mix of bar girls and Thai gangsters.

 

Wanting to break away from the typical “Bangkok Fiction” syndrome, a new imprint, Crime Wave Press, was founded earlier this year by Hans Kemp, the publisher of Visionary World, and seasoned writer Tom Vater. According to their website, they plan to publish “a wide range of crime fiction, aiming to promote strong voices, exceptional talent, and unique points of view in the crime fiction genre.” Crime Wave Press has just published Vater’s new novel, The Cambodian Book of the Dead, Dead Sea by Sam Lopez, and a new edition of Nick Wilgus’ popular Mindfulness and Murder, a novel that was turned into a Thai language film a few years ago. Crime Wave Press is also looking for more authors of English language crime novels that are either based in Asia or contain “a strong Asian connection and focus point.” I talked to Tom Vater recently about his latest novel and his plans for Crime Wave Press.

 

If I’m not mistaken, you basically formed Crime Wave Press out of necessity. That is, you were looking for a publisher for the new novel you had finished writing, but found that to be a frustrating process, so you decided to start your own imprint. How has the experience of being a publisher been thus far?

It’s been great, much, much better than we could ever have expected. Crime Wave Press was thought up one afternoon by Hans Kemp (a Hong Kong-based publisher) and me. We had just collaborated on a successful title, Sacred Skin, which was published by Visionary World, Hans’ acclaimed publishing house for illustrated books. I was frustrated with not being able to find a publisher for The Cambodian Book of the Dead, and Hans said, “Why don’t we start an imprint that puts out crime fiction based in Asia?” I was instantly sold on the idea. Hans has connections and business savvy and I have yet more connections, two titles under my belt and have read crime fiction vociferously for many years. We felt we could really launch an imprint that would reach beyond much of the tepid crime fiction output in the region.

I got the rights back for my first novel The Devil’s Road to Kathmandu, and this was our first publication in June. The Cambodian Book of the Dead followed in July and Dead Sea by Sam Lopez came out in September. The reaction has been phenomenal. We sold the Spanish language rights for The Devil’s Road to Kathmandu which is coming out as both print and eBook in January 2013. We also sold The Cambodian Book of the Dead to Exhibit A, a British/US publisher, so that title will be re-launched worldwide in the middle of 2013, though we have retained the rights for Thailand and Cambodia. And I have been signed to write a sequel. So, all in all, modest expectations have been blown out of the water and Crime Wave Press seems to be really flying for now.

You are also looking for more writers to publish. What sort of books do you want to put out, and what are you looking for in a manuscript?

We plan to publish a range of crime fiction – from whodunits to Noir and Hardboiled, from historical mysteries to espionage thrillers, from literary crime to pulp fiction, from highly commercial page turners to marginal texts exploring Asia’s dark underbelly. We are looking for complete manuscripts by professional writers.  But we are of course also looking for stuff that we personally like. Much of crime fiction is political – from Chester Himes to James Ellroy – and we decided right from the outset that we would not publish books that do not fit into our own social, cultural and political framework. That’s to say we will not publish novels with an overtly conservative agenda.

What are your goals for the first year? Do you have a specific number of books you want to publish, for example?

We would like to publish ten novels by autumn 2013. We are hoping to get our titles into regional book chains, once our back catalogue is a little more extensive. And we continue working on selling foreign rights of our titles. But all this depends on the type of submissions we receive. So far it’s been a decidedly mixed bag – from hugely competent thrillers to complete nonsense: someone recently sent us a 120,000-word treatise on conspiracy theories. Most of the manuscripts we have received have originated in Southeast Asia and we are hoping to get some material from China, India and Japan as well.

Do you have confidence that there is still a good sales market for paperback books, or in a few more years will you be concentrating only on selling e-books?

I think that mass paperbacks will continue to sell. E-books are clawing a larger and larger market share from month to month, but as I said, one of our aims is to get a whole range of our titles into bookshops in Asia and I certainly think there is a market for it here. Also, the fact that our first two titles have been licensed/sold to other publishers as print editions and e-books suggests that the paperback is anything but dead in the US and Europe. For now we are looking at three different formats: print, print on demand, and e-books.

As far as writing style, who are your influences? Or, who would you be flattered to be compared to?

I don’t want to be compared to my literary heroes. They seem to be out there in a kind of sacrosanct atmosphere of unattainable stylishness and substance. I just try to write the best I can. The crime writers I love are authors like Chester Himes, John D. MacDonald, Ross MacDonald, David Goodis, Jim Thompson, Patricia Highsmith and Charles Willeford. And Chandler and Hammett. All these writers are dead of course. Amongst currently active authors I am particularly fond of Massimo Carlotto (his Death’s Dark Abyss is probably my favorite crime novel of recent memory), Philipp Kerr, and Charlie Williams. I also read a lot of fiction that is not directly crime related, anything from Joseph Conrad to the beat writers. I just started Andrew Morton’s Silver.

The Cambodian Book of the Dead is not your first novel. You also wrote another mystery, The Devil’s Road to Kathmandu, a few years ago. Besides locale, what is the biggest difference between these two novels?

Both books are very similar in that they feed directly on my 20 years of travel and non-fiction writing in Asia. All the settings in these two titles are extremely familiar to me and many of the characters are amalgamations of people I met on the road. The biggest difference is that almost ten years lie between the two books and in the interim I wrote and published hundreds of articles, several screenplays and numerous non-fiction books, so by the time I started The Cambodian Book of the Dead my writing was quite assured and I knew much better what I was doing. Also, The Devil’s Road is primarily an adventurous romp while the Cambodian Book of the Dead is a sometimes painful, often brutal examination of history, while still being entertainment of course. 

You’ve done a lot of travel writing in the past couple of decades, specifically research and writing for guidebooks, both in German and in English. Will you keep doing that, or shift most of your time and energy to Crime Wave Press?

I have found that in order to make a living from writing, I need to work in different genres. I am currently the author of several guidebooks covering Cambodia and Thailand. I was asked recently whether I might be interested in adding Burma to those titles and I declined. I am certainly not looking at expanding my guidebook catalogue. I used to write a lot more for print media but I see this type of work constantly declining. It’s increasingly badly paid and assignments are rarer than they used to be.

I really enjoy writing non-fiction books. I am currently in the process of editing my text for Kraig Lieb’s forthcoming Cambodia, a new illustrated book on the country by this well known Lonely Planet photographer and I have just been to Burma (Myanmar) to research Burmese Light, an illustrated book by Hans Kemp, due out in the spring of next year. Also, Sacred Skin, the book on Thailand’s sacred tattoos I published last year with my wife, photographer Aroon Thaewchatturat, was received really well – and we are developing several other ideas for illustrated books. I am very lucky that I work with good friends and that I am offered more work than I can handle. The time I no longer spend on print journalism and my decreasing involvement with guidebooks now belongs to Crime Wave Press and that is likely to increase in the coming year.

You’ve spent a lot of time in Cambodia over the years. Obviously, you go there for work purposes, but you also seem to like the country and the people. If you were going there just for personal enjoyment, what are some of your favorite places to go or things to do?

I love Cambodia, always have since first going there in 1995. Funky people, beautiful scenery, a venal government, and history to give any noir novel a run for its money. I do still go there for personal reasons. I have family in Phnom Penh. If I were to visit for a holiday, I would head for Kampot and Kep. The coastline towards the Vietnam border is sublime, infrastructure is improving but not exploding and it’s laid back. I also like Battambang. I was there recently on an assignment and the town has come a long way in recent years. The countryside in that part of Cambodia is gorgeous.

Besides writing, you are an avid reader and book collector. Where are your favorite places in Asia for book hunting?

Ah, now you are looking for arcane, secret information. Yes, I read all the time. Crime fiction, fiction, non-fiction with a bias towards Asia and Noir. I do also collect books and find it impossible to walk past a secondhand bookshop without looking inside. In Thailand the best two bookshops are Dasa Books in Bangkok and Backstreet Books in Chiang Mai. I was recently in Avignon, France and found first editions by William Irish and E.W. Hornung and an amazing shop called Lignes Noires, which specialized in crime fiction. Kathmandu used to be great place to pick up old books, but the street vendors have recently been closed down by the police. Kolkata (Calcutta) is another good city to find old titles, especially on India of course, and last time I was there I picked up three first editions by P.G. Wodehouse. Cairo has a fascinating secondhand book market. And someone told me recently Damascus is a great place to pick up old books, but perhaps now is not the time.

http://www.crimewavepress.com

https://www.facebook.com/tomvater

http://exhibitabooks.com/books/the-cambodian-book-of-the-dead-by-tom-vater/

The King on the Moon

I was in my bookshop last night, updating the Daily Arrival list on our website, when I got a phone call from Chamrong, a friend in Cambodia. The connection was poor, so I had to ask him to repeat what he was telling me. Something about the moon.

“Go outside and look at the moon,” Rong urged me. “I think the moon in Bangkok is the same as Cambodia. You should go look.”

“What is happening with the moon?” I asked. “Is there an eclipse or something?”

“Look at the moon,” he repeated. “You can see the face of King Sihanouk!”

“Huh? On the moon?”

“Yes!” Rong exclaimed. “You can see his face! It’s King Sihanouk!”

So, with phone in hand, I wandered outside and looked up. All I could see were the damn Skytrain tracks, some large buildings and lots of wires. I turned in a different direction and more of the same, plus a massage sign and a few billboards. No sign of any moon.

 

“I can’t see the moon right now,” I told Rong. “There are too many tall buildings on my street. I’ll have to look later when I go home.”

“Yes, look later. You will see King Sihanouk’s face.”

 

Well, on my walk home, I finally did catch a glimpse of the moon. My eyesight isn’t so good, even wearing glasses, but I certainly couldn’t make out any image resembling the recently departed King Sihanouk of Cambodia. Hell, if you use your imagination and look at the moon, it could be anybody or anything.

 

“Look, there’s Gordon Lightfoot!’

“No, it’s Isaac Hayes.”

“Actually, that looks more like Richard Nixon.”

“You’re crazy, it’s Betty’s buttocks.”

I wasn’t about to tell my Cambodian friend he was nuts. No doubt this Sihanouk on the moon thing is some rumor that’s running rampant in Cambodia, as happens so many times over there. If they want to believe that their beloved former King is smiling down at them from the moon, go ahead and let them. Just don’t let it rain again tonight.

Kim Fay’s Map of Lost Memories

At the far end of the apartment, a row of shutters opened onto a balcony overlooking the swayback roofs of Shanghai. Beyond the low buildings and down a crooked street, the Whangpoo River shushed against the wharves. A heavy, velvet humidity pressed down on this dark belt of water, a perpetual tension that caused a wilted draft, lifting fumes of jasmine and sewage, coal and rotting river weed, into thick night air.

That’s the opening paragraph of The Map of Lost Memories, the impressive debut novel by Kim Fay that has just been published. That evocative passage is just one of many that are peppered through the thrilling historical novel, set in Asia in 1925. Fay takes the reader along with her characters, deftly describing the sights, smells, and vibes of each exotic locale they visit. From the back alleys of Shanghai and Saigon, to humid jungles and magnificent temple ruins in Cambodia, Fay’s vivid, atmospheric prose enables the reader to see and smell and feel the surroundings.

The main character in The Map of Lost Memories is Irene Blum, a young museum curator from Seattle. She has been sent to Asia on an unusual mission by her dying, and somewhat mysterious, mentor. In Shanghai she is introduced to Simone, “a mercurial French woman” and experienced Asia hand, who Irene hopes will help her find a legendary set of copper scrolls that detail the history of Cambodia’s ancient Khmer civilization, an area of particular interest to both women. After joining forces in Shanghai, and dealing with Simone’s dangerous husband, the two women sail to Vietnam, where they rendezvous with two men in Saigon. From that point, their journey takes on added intrigue — and even more participants — when they enter Cambodia and travel from the ruins of Angkor to Phnom Penh, and then into the unforgiving Cambodia jungles in search of a mysterious temple and the scrolls.

 

Kim Fay spent fourteen long years — from inspiration to publication — writing, researching, and rewriting her novel. That sounds like an unbelievably tedious and frustrating ordeal, but she should be quite happy with the end result. Only published a few weeks ago, The Map of Lost Memories is already receiving raves. A review in Publishers Weekly called the book “Atmospheric, lyrical, and written in almost painfully beautiful prose, this historical novel sings like a coloratura soprano performing in a gorgeous opera.” The Historical Novel Society also recommended the book, saying: “We expect a female Indiana Jones and an expedition filled with adventure and excitement, but while there are exciting moments, the focus is more on character, and the whole expedition is more of a journey of self-discovery … an intriguing read that takes different paths to those expected.”

Other authors have also been effusive with praise. Gail Tsukiyama said: “With deftness and clarity, Fay brings her world to life and gives us a captivating read.” Nicole Mones added: “Kim Fay breathes new and original life into the Westerner-in-Asia novel with The Map of Lost Memories. An enchanting, absorbing first novel, all the more remarkable for its effortless portrayal of a bygone world, now nearly forgotten.”

I played e-mail ping pong with Kim recently, asking her about the new novel and its source of inspiration, her other writing projects, and a few questions about food. Needless to say, she’s a very busy woman these days!

You must be very excited to see your first novel finally published and in bookshops. What sort of emotions are you experiencing now that it’s out?

If I had the words to draw a picture of me doing a happy dance, I would. This truly is the best feeling in the world. I’ve wanted to be a published novelist since I was ten, so to say that this is a dream come true is an understatement. I plan to enjoy every second of it, except for those when I’m anxiously worrying that no one will buy my book! Fortunately, these moments pass. Also, along with exhilaration, there is some sadness. I spent fourteen years with my characters. Now I have to let them go. Fortunately, readers are starting to discuss them. It’s a bit like when a kid goes off to college. The parent still hears about what they’re up to and even talks about them with family and friends, but ultimately the parent is no longer in control and the child has gone off to live her own life.

You lived in Vietnam for several years, but most of this novel takes place in Cambodia and is about ancient Khmer temples. What inspired you to pick this topic for your book?

Not long after I moved to Vietnam, I read a book called Silk Roads. It’s the true story of Andre and Clara Malraux, a young French couple who lost their small fortune and came up with the idea of looting a Cambodian temple and living off the sale of a few choice artifacts. In 1923, they set sail to Cambodia, and with the help of local laborers, they pried a seven-piece, 1,000-pound bas relief from the abandoned temple of Banteay Srei. They were caught almost immediately and put under house arrest in Phnom Penh. While there they witnessed the injustices of colonialism. This experience launched their involvement in the revolutionary politics of the region, and their overall experience inspired me to start writing The Map of Lost Memories.

This novel took several years for you to write. Like any good fiction, you had to create memorable characters, write believable dialogue, develop atmosphere, and mix in a page-turning plot. Which aspects to writing the novel were the most difficult for you? And which parts were easiest?  

The first books I read on my own when I was young were mysteries such as Nancy Drew. Because of this, I’ve always been drawn to plot. I love mapping out a story and creating an intricate web that needs to be unraveled. This comes easily to me, as does creating a setting that draws readers in. I think the latter is due to my love of travel writing. I’m grateful to the skills I’ve honed as a travel writer, since they give me the ability to create a strong sense of place. What is toughest for me is character. I don’t have a problem coming up with characters, but once they emerge, I often have no idea who they are. And I will find myself trying to force my characters to go against their nature and behave in ways that will serve the plot I’ve created—this is always a mistake! Fortunately, characters usually have minds of their own, and if you give them their space, they will develop in incredible ways. I also write in layers, with one draft layered over another draft layered over the top of another. By doing this I allow my characters to develop organically, and I spend time getting to know them better and understanding who they are in the context of the story I’m trying to tell.

You have quite a cast of interesting characters of various nationalities in your book. Once you had the idea for the novel, did you also have the roster of characters pretty much set, or did they evolve during the course of writing?

I think I answered part of this question in my response above, but to elaborate on it, Roger and Simone Merlin were loosely inspired by Andre and Clara Malraux, and like most of the characters—Irene, Marc, Mr. Simms, Anne—they existed from the very start. The big surprise was Clothilde. She did not exist in the early drafts of the book, and when she first appeared, she was simply Mr. Simms’s nurse. But the more I wrote, the more she demanded a life and story of her own. I think she was protesting the lack of local characters in the book. I don’t blame her, but I was wary of including a local cast of characters, because I felt that I had to stay true to the Western viewpoint in Asia in the 1920s, and that viewpoint was so awful most of the time. Even Irene, who loves Cambodia and its culture, has a pretty terrible attitude toward the local population. Also, when it came to local women and their role in Western expatriate society at that time period, they were generally confined to being servants, mistresses or prostitutes. While Clothilde is indeed Mr. Simms’s mistress, I hope that her reasons for this are sympathetic justified in the story and that her individuality comes through. I wish I would have developed Clothilde further, but she has recently informed me that she will have a significant role in the sequel!

I recall your last trip to Asia a few years ago when you went to Cambodia and took the boat from Phnom Penh up the river to Kratie. At that point, you must have been close to finishing the book. What specific contribution did that trip make to the novel?

In 2009, as I neared the end of the writing the novel, I hadn’t been to Cambodia for four years. The plot of the novel had evolved drastically during that time, and I felt the need to return and immerse myself in the country, so that I could undertake the home stretch with Cambodia’s sights, sounds and smells fresh in my mind. I spent days in the National Museum in Phnom Penh (one of my favorite places in Cambodia and the scene of a major encounter with Irene and Simone), just sitting in the shadows, sipping iced tea and studying the artifacts. And I traveled to Kratie, on the Mekong River between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng. There, I pedaled out into the countryside and let my mind wander as I inhaled the dank, omnipresent scent of the river and reminded myself how such intense heat and humidity can make a person feel so alive. I was able to return the States and steep my final work on the novel in the immediacy of my experiences.

You’re a former bookseller. In this era of e-books and online sales, many bookshops are closing. Do you think that brick and mortal retail shops can still play an important role in selling books, or will they soon go the way of the dinosaur?

I think brick and mortar retail shops play an incredibly crucial role—creating a sense of community and offering a place where discussion and ideas can take root and grow. There is no substitute for an independent bookseller hand-selling a customer his favorite book, or for a conversation that breaks out among the shelves when two people discover they love the same book. I understand why people shop online, and I understand why they read e-books, but I think in both instances they are missing out on what is my favorite thing about independent bookshops: human connection. The more our lives our consumed by our online worlds, the more we need bookshops to keep us connected to one another. Every time I walk into an independent bookstore, I feel a sense of possibility. Of course I would love to say that because of their importance, bookstores will be around forever, but sadly I’m not sure. I’m just grateful to people like you for investing your lives in places where people can gather and share their love of the written word.

What about your next novel; a sequel to this one, or something entirely different?

There will definitely be a sequel to The Map of Lost Memories, although it’s difficult to talk about without revealing spoilers. But that’s not my next book. I’m about 100 pages into a new novel that takes place in Vietnam between 1937 and 1975. It’s the story of an American woman born in Vietnam who goes on to become a culinary anthropologist. Along with studying the country’s imperial cuisine, she also feeds homesick soldiers. I want to use the book to explore the domestic side of Vietnamese life during an era associated solely with war. I also want it to be a love song to the country. But because of my affection for Nancy Drew, I can’t help myself—there will also be a murder and a mystery to be solved.

You are editor of the marvelous To Asia with Love series, and also wrote the excellent food travel memoir Communion. Do you have any ideas for other travel or non-fiction books that you’d like to write, or will you stick to novels at this point?

I feel fortunate to have edited the To Asia With Love guidebooks and to have written a food memoir about Vietnam; and although I truly enjoy writing nonfiction, my first love is fiction. Now that I have an opportunity to pursue it, that’s where my main focus is. But that doesn’t mean I won’t write more nonfiction in the future. One idea I’d really like to pursue is a Vietnamese imperial cuisine cookbook to pair with my new novel. But it would contain more than just recipes. It would also be a history book and incorporate stories from Vietnam’s imperial era and unique tidbits, such as translations of a cookbook from the imperial city of Hue that was written in 1915 entirely in verse.

You’re an unabashed foodie; you’ve written about Asian cuisine and cook a lot at home. What are some of the best dishes you’ve eaten in Cambodia?

On my last trip to Cambodia, I became addicted to green mango salad. I was blazing hot all the time, and it was so refreshing—especially since mangos were in season, hanging by the hundreds in the trees and piled high at every roadside stand. It was also more flavorful than similar salads I’d had in surrounding countries, mainly because, as I wrote in my travel diary, it was so “shrimpy.” I also ate a lot of pleah, the cold beef salad made with lime, roasted rice powder and peanuts. While I like many of the soups, as well, I was definitely drawn to dishes that revived me with their coolness and light flavors.

Were you brave enough to try any of the more “challenging” treats over there, such as tarantula or field rat?

I’m not opposed to such treats in theory, but to be honest, I’m not sure if I could stomach a whole tarantula. And for the most part, I didn’t come across such dishes. In any case, I figure Anthony Bourdain has the adventure dining market covered—I think I’ll do best leaving the creepy crawlies to the experts!!

You will do some book signings and interviews in the US for the launch of this novel. Are you planning on any trips to Asia to promote the book too?

In the spring of 2013, I’ll be accompanying a food tour group through Vietnam; at the end of this trip, we’ll visit Cambodia where we plan to hold a book group for The Map of Lost Memories right at the temples. While there, I hope to do an event at Monument Books, which already has my novel on sale, front and center. If it works into my schedule, I’d love to come to Thailand as well, but I’m not yet sure if that will happen.

http://www.kimfay.net/

 

 

Welcome to Changing Myanmar!

Every time I return from a trip to Myanmar, especially during the past two years, friends and customers at my shop will ask me: “Do you see any changes happening there?”

 

Normally I shrug my shoulders and say: “Not really.” And that’s the truth. Any changes in the past have either been non-existent or very subtle ones. But this year the changes are more readily apparent and, for the most part, positive ones. If you follow the news, you obviously know that Aung San Suu Kyi was freed from house arrest last year, ran for a seat in parliament this year and was elected. She also seems to have finally accepted the fact that allowing tourists to visit her country is not such an evil thing. As I noted in a post last month, her once-banned image can now be seen everywhere around the country, and her name is in all the papers. Citizens can also now express themselves more openly when talking politics — in public, in newspapers, on radio, and on the Internet.  Things still aren’t as “free” as they are in Western countries (or, shall we say, “appear” to be in those countries) but the changes are for the better.

 

Two things of note have become much cheaper in Myanmar this year: cars and cell phones. The price to buy a new car has suddenly become affordable for many, so drivers are ditching their old clunkers and buying new Japanese models. The downside to this is a lot more traffic. Yangon is increasingly becoming paralyzed by Bangkok-like traffic jams in some areas. The ability to buy a cell phone is also now within the budget of more people, and access to wireless Internet is also becoming more common. I’m already annoyed by all the loud, chatty morons I see — and hear — in local restaurants. I mentioned in a post last month about seeing the “Free Wi-Fi” sign at a teashop. The gadget revolution in Myanmar has begun. And credit cards and ATMs — yet more common conveniences that Myanmar never had — are now on their way too. Changes, changes, and more changes.

 

As expected, after Aung San Suu Kyi was freed and the government engaged on a vigorous series of reforms, Myanmar started making the news and more foreigners became curious visiting the country. And since “The Lady” no longer forbids such excursions, tourists are now descending on Myanmar like the proverbial locusts. But this increase in arrivals is offering a mixed bag of results. Hotels are raising their rates to alarming new heights. A room in Yangon that cost me $18 a year ago is now $32 … and will probably be even more before the end of the year. At “nicer” hotels, I’m sure the rates are outrageous. The price of air tickets is also going up (even though there are more domestic airlines this year) and other transport options are also more expensive due to the cost of petrol and the increased demand.

 

The influx of more tourists will certainly offer more economic perks for the locals, but the extra demands from some overly picky western travelers — many of whom are used to being pampered in more traditional tourist havens — are creating headaches for local guides and tour operators. People working in the Myanmar tourism industry have become used to dealing with laid back, knowledgeable, and very reliable travelers; people who did their homework before visiting Myanmar and knew what to expect. They weren’t so demanding or prone to changing their minds or breaking commitments. The “new breed” of curious tourists, locals tell me, are proving to be much more difficult to deal with.

 

Myanmar is now seen as a “hot” new investment opportunity by many businesses. But I fear that this bevy of greedy developers and investors will do more harm than good. I look at what’s happened in Cambodia — where the rich are getting richer and the poor are as desperate as ever — and I fear the same fate will befall Myanmar. In the past several years, many poor people in Cambodia have been forced out of their old neighborhoods and “relocated” by the government, who use the seized land for new developments such as condos, office buildings, and shopping centers. Other residents can no longer to afford to live or operate small businesses in these prime locations and are also forced to move. And that’s what I fear is going to happen in Yangon and Mandalay, and even in small towns like Nyaungshwe. When the big cats come to town, how much longer can my friend Htein Linn afford to rent a shop on the main street in town? Say goodbye to lovely old neighborhoods, rich with tradition and a sense of community, and welcome another ugly high rise building or mall. Maybe that’s progress in the eyes of some of these greedy creeps, but not in mine.


Signs of Siem Reap

Here are a few more shots I took in Siem Reap last month. When I wasn’t touring the ruins at Angkor, or eating meals at Hawaii Restaurant, I spent time walking around town and looking at funny signs. One day I went with a group of friends to West Baray for a long overdue swim. Maybe not the cleanest water around, but it felt mighty refreshing in the middle of a hot afternoon.

 

 

Walk Among the Ruins

Another day in Cambodia, back at Angkor Thom, wandering around the ruins, dodging the annoying tour groups, the weather hot as blistering asphalt, wishing for rain. A quick visit to the Elephant Terrace and the Leper King Terrace — yes, it’s all a blur — and then a short walk to the majestic confines of Bayon. Faces, faces, and more faces. Always amazing. Just in case you get lost or disoriented there are plenty of helpful signs — annoying may be the more accurate word — directing you where to go.

 

 

Don’t Do It!

Around the temples of Angkor nowadays, you can’t miss them. Everywhere you turn there are signs telling you not to do something, or to be careful. Watch Your Step … Don’t Touch … Don’t Litter. No Writing. Don’t Breathe Heavily. Ah, I miss the glory days of the old “hands on” Angkor, before the hordes of visor-wearing tour groups descended like locusts upon the temples. Such is “progress” in this new millennium.

Wet Wet Wet

It’s Songkran weekend here in Thailand, the annual water festival that’s held to celebrate the Thai New Year. Similar watery celebrations are also going on this week in the neighboring countries of Myanmar, Laos, and Cambodia. The basic goal of them all: the wetter the better!

 

I attended my very first Songkran in Thailand exactly 20 years ago. I spent the festival days up in Chiang Mai that year, immersing myself in the water mayhem and Thai culture. I had a blast. One of the most enjoyable cultural festivals I had ever attended. I was hooked and returned for Songkran again the following year, and the year after, and again. In 1996 I finally moved here for good. I don’t go out and do it in the road like in the “old days,” but I still enjoy the Songkran spirit, celebrating it nowadays as more of an observer. It’s the biggest holiday of the year in Thailand and Thais are always in a happy, buoyant mood. And despite all the trucks and motorcycles you see on the streets, actively engaged in water warfare, there is still more to the holiday than squirting water at other people.

 

While I get a kick of Songkran, many foreign residents here seem to feel the opposite; they are annoyed — or even angered — by the constant water silliness, and do their best to either stay indoors or leave town during the holiday. But for those that do hang around town, Songkran week in Bangkok is blissful and peaceful. I won’t say that Bangkok is exactly a ghost town, but because so many locals and expats leave town, the streets are virtually free of traffic jams and the resultant chaos.  

The photos today are NOT from any Songkran celebrations, but were taken two weeks ago at Kbal Spean in Cambodia. My Cambodian friends were apparently eager to get a head start on the water festival and dashed in and out of the small waterfall at Kbal Spean for a good half hour. I hadn’t been to Kbal Spean in about six years, but it remains my favorite side trip in the Siem Reap area near Angkor. I always enjoy the trek up the mountain, climbing over huge rocks and boulders, being one with nature, and marveling at the rock carvings near the top — or at least the ones that haven’t been defaced or stolen by temple bandits. And that waterfall can make for a very welcome and refreshing break after the long, hard climb, especially in the toasty weather we have at this time of year.

 

Happy New Year — again — to you all!

 

Back in the Jungle

Ta Prohm is best known as Angkor’s “jungle temple,” categorized as such due to all the trees — particularly the massive roots — that have become intertwined with the ancient architecture over the course of the past several centuries. To say that it’s an awesome sight would be an understatement.


I’ve visited Ta Prohm at least a half-dozen times over the past twelve years, but the last time I went there was seven or eight years ago, so I figured I was due for a return, which is what happened last week. It wasn’t any less magnificent, but a lot of that jungle vibe and magical atmosphere has now been lost; suffocated by the hordes of tourists who now descend on the site each day. Plus, there is a lot of renovation taking place, so much so that you can spot cranes and scaffolding in several parts of the area. Not surprisingly, parts of the temple complex are now roped off, to prevent the “curious” from pawing the sculptures and damaging the fragile structures even further. I realize that these architectural treasures need to be preserved, but it still saddens me to see Ta Prohm in this altered state.

 

 

 

Tag Cloud

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 94 other followers